In my orientation to living in Korea, I was told to consult YouTube to learn how to operate my Korean appliances. Needless to say, I was thankful when I arrived at my new home and my rice cooker only had one button. I scoffed at my friend’s futuristic device, with a flurry of Korean characters dotting the front control panel.
When things were not so simple, a strategic trial and error process ensued. Sometimes, there were surprises, such as when another friend discovered a toaster lurking within her microwave:
It paid to keep your mind open to new discoveries.
With this guiding mantra, this past spring I embarked on a journey. Following two years teaching in Korea, it was time for the next adventure. I decided to travel Southeast Asia by bicycle. Travel by motor vehicle inhibits the senses. Countless sights, sounds and smells are lost with the speed of transit. On bicycle, I wasn’t taking in the scenery – I was part of the scenery.
Besides this non-traditional path to experience the region, I wanted a way to connect with the community. Previously, I had worked with the environmental organization Trees, Water & People on their fuel-efficient stove program in Honduras. Their program works in developing countries to introduce slight modifications to an existing cook stove design for greater efficiency. With their help, I was able to identify a similar organization, GERES, leading the way to clean cooking in Cambodia.
It was decided that my riding partner and I would stop through one of the communities where GERES was active to see their work in action. The use of stoves with modifications introduced by GERES has the potential to save up to 2 million tons of resources by 2017. My hope was to show support for their mission, and to experience clean cooking firsthand. It was arranged that we would prepare a collaborative meal for the community on one of GERES’ stove models, the New Laos Stove.
After receiving a tour of the stove production facility and a cooking demonstration by our host (read about it here), the first order of business was a visit to the market. Our brigade was made up of my riding partner and I, our GERES host, Makhara, and friendly Savy, whose home was hosting the event. With a rough sketch of a menu, we entered the web of local vendors in search of fresh ingredients. Surrounded by mounds of produce, fresh pineapples caught my attention. Encircled by spiraling ridges, my eyes were intrigued by the intricate pattern carved into the fruit.
I decided that the pineapple would be of use, and we requested to take four. With only one fruit manicured for sale, we patiently waited as the vendor prepared our order. Watching the woman carefully wind her knife up the sides of the fruit, I noticed she followed a pattern. Her knife seemed to follow the spiraling growth of the fruit’s outer “eyes.” It struck me that the carved pattern wasn’t simply a facet of presentation, but an ingenious way to preserve the greatest amount of flesh while removing the sharp outer skin. Smitten by the new technique, we finished up at the market and returned to the village.
One characteristic of the New Laos Stoves is their mobility. Essentially self-contained buckets, the three sizes are able to be shifted and moved depending upon the occasion. The modified design also has a better ease of use than traditional models, with lesser amounts of harmful gases escaping during food preparation. Outside of Savy’s home, we found our set-up for the day. With her family’s production facility beneath her house as a backdrop, we had one large stove on the ground, accompanied by a prep table and loads of curious onlookers.
We began our prep work, dicing up the pork slabs and comparing the worth of our biceps with a turn at the mortar and pestle. At some point, a loud-speaker was rolled out on a dolly, and before we knew it “Gangnam Style” was echoing throughout the village.
When the coals were deemed ready, we began to cook. One stove, one pot, one thing at a time. We started with the main event: pork and pineapple stir fry. We put the ingredients in the pan and the nominated stove attendant stood by, spatula in hand.
As things simmered away, eventually it was time for the taste test. Skeptically, the spoon was passed around. Just as I was wondering what was missing in the flavor, someone appeared with a bottle of soy sauce. It was tipped in, along with a few tablespoons of palm sugar.
Preparations continued with a version of basil fried rice, and were remedied again by the ladies’ culinary know-how. At last, lunch was ready. Our panel of discerning judges, the local children, waited on a tarp rolled out for the occasion.
Nervously, I waited for the first gag. But, it didn’t come. When I got the universal signal for all clear, a thumbs up, I eased up and wiped my brow.
Happy with the meal’s success, we kicked back and enjoyed each others’ company. More than anything, I was impressed by the warmth with which we were received. At first difficult to find our common ground, in no time we were taking turns tending to the stove and comforting the baby, all anxiously awaiting a meal to share. The result was fusion stripped down to its core, peppered with laughter and garnished with cultural exchange.
With a few new culinary tricks in my back pocket, and an unforgettable experience, we pedaled off into the sunset with a new respect for Cambodia, its people, and the work GERES leads within the community.
Pork and Pineapple Stir Fry
Serves 4
2 cloves garlic
2 tbsp. ginger
2 tsp. salt
2 tbsp. oil
1 lb. pork shoulder, diced
1/2 pineapple, diced
2 dried chili peppers, crumbled
1/8 cup soy sauce
1/8 cup palm sugar
2 limes
Rice, to serve
Combine garlic, ginger and salt in mortar and pestle, and mix until ground together. Or, crush together using the side of your knife on a cutting board.
Next, mix all ingredients together in a large bowl and stir to combine.
Heat oil in a large wok or skillet over medium-high heat. Add pork mixture and stir-fry until pork is cooked through and pineapple is tender, about 10-15 minutes. Add more soy sauce and palm sugar to taste. Squeeze lime juice into pan to finish. Serve with rice.
Thai Curry in Korea 